The next stage was to finish off the transom. I departed from the plan here. I fitted the first 12mm sheet inside the existing sheet fixing it against the deck. I then fitted two bracing sheets either side against the side rails and butted to the transom sheet. I then fitted the third sheet inside this. I glued and screwed the whole assembly together. Returning to the plans I fitted three blocks of ply outside of the transom against the side rails which protrude back from the transom by 100mm. (Picture below)
Once everything was set I filleted and taped with fiberglass tape the side rails, transom and deck joints hopefully making the whole thing strong enough to take an engine of at least 60HP. Once the tapes were set I coated the whole thing with epoxy resin. In the bow I made a watertight locker which could double as a seat using 12mm ply screwed to the side rails. I then sanded it all down and painted the area where the tubes were to be fitted with the two-pack paint.
Once the paint had set I fitted the tubes. Before you fix them to the hull blow them up hard and leave them for a couple of days. Any stretch in the tubes will then be taken up and there will be no problems later. If you do not do this the tubes will stretch after they are fitted and they will wrinkle or tear the flange fitting.
After you have left the tubes to stretch for a while you need to ensure they are still hard then lift them onto the hull. I tied the stern tubes to the transom to hold them in place. I then started to staple the tube to the hull starting from the bow and working round to the stern on one side. The staples I used were special stainless steel marine ones, which I purchased from an online supplier.
As they were heavy staples I hired a professional staple gun from my local hire shop. I continued stapling down the other side of the boat again starting from the bow. Once I had finished the lower flange I checked everything for fitting and then I stapled the tube side flange to the side rail pulling the tubes in tight where necessary. To cover the staples and the flange I used aluminum carpet strip the screw down type that is smooth underneath. It comes in 3M lengths and is ideal for this purpose. I did however throw away the screws provided and use stainless equivalents.
I was now at the stage where the supplied plans finish. The fitting out is up to you and a matter of personal choice. Before I started to fit the boat out I put it on the trailer. The trailer would support the boat better and it would also hold my weight. as I needed to get into the boat to fit it out.
I decided to make a jockey seat and console of ply. It would be lighter and cost considerably less than a stock fiber glass item. Before I started building the console /seat I purchased a fuel tank which should fit inside my intended console. Once I had the tank I constructed the console around it making sure the width and height was ok for us to sit comfortably